When you pick up a pruning saw and begin trimming trees, several questions may arise in your head. Should I cut this branch? How about that one? Is now the ideal moment to prune? What happens if I remove too many branches?

Knowing the answers to your concerns will give you the confidence to prune your trees with care, increasing their longevity and beauty.

To help you out, here are tips on how to properly cut the branches on your tree:

Think about safety

Before beginning any tree pruning project, determine whether you need a tree services professional. You should leave these activities to professionals with the tools and extensive expertise for complex pruning procedures.

If you have never done it before, you should avoid doing this:

• Tree trimming near electricity wires.
• Removing any huge dead or drooping branches.
• Cutting large branches near homes or structures.

Remember that using a high-quality saw improves pruning safety, so always go for one.

Prune the trees at the right time.

Pruning your trees at the right time is essential for ensuring that they remain healthy and you have an easy time.

Pruning deciduous trees is best done in late fall or early winter. If you have plenty of evergreen trees, prune them in late winter. The naked branches provide a clear view of the tree structure.

You should avoid substantial tree cutting during “maple sugar time” (January to early March in most locations).

Beetles that attack oak trees are active from late spring to summertime. If oak wilt is present in your area, avoid pruning your oaks during this time.

When you find dead or diseased branches, prune them immediately. Waiting until fall or winter to clip these branches may result in severe tree damage or infection, mainly if the branches are unhealthy.

To minimize the spread of disease while pruning unhealthy branches, put the pruning blade in a 10% bleach solution between each cut.

Be strategic in how you remove large branches

You should remove larger branches in three stages:

Make a small cut on the underside of the branch, approximately 4-5 inches from the trunk.

You should then cut the branch about 2-3 inches from the first cut. When an unsupported branch falls due to its weight, the initial cut prevents the bark from peeling down the trunk’s side.

Make the last cut and remove the remaining stub. Make this cut just outside the branch collar, the slightly swollen area where the branch and trunk come together.

Leave alone V-shape branches.

Some trees naturally develop narrow V-shaped branches. While these narrow branch patterns might impair the tree’s general structure, not all require corrective trimming.

Native elms, hornbeams, serviceberries, hickories, and Osage orange trees are generally sturdy or small enough to require little structural trimming. You should only remove crossed branches that may rub.

Other trees, particularly maples, flowering pears, ashes, willows, and basswoods, require your constant monitoring and training from an early age to minimize structural difficulties as they mature.

Narrow, V-shaped junctures are weak and prone to breaking off during wind or ice storms. Remove one of the stems when the tree is young to keep V-shapes from generating difficulties.

Remove suckers as soon as you notice them.

Some trees sprout new branches from the ground as a form of survival. These rapidly expanding stems can eventually undermine the main tree. Cut suckers off at ground level, such as with a lopper, before they reach 6 to 12 inches in height.

The easiest method to avoid yearly suckering is to avoid planting trees that frequently produce suckers. If you aren’t sure about the trees you should avoid, get the input of a professional.

Get rid of forked trunks.

Forked trunks are less sturdy than single trunks and frequently grow together, creating a hollow chamber in which insects and rot can further damage the tree. The tree will eventually divide, or one of its trunks may break away.

To avoid this, remove one of the forked trunks when the tree is still young. Cut as near to ground level as practicable but at a slight slope so that rainwater drains off the stump. Be careful not to damage the bark on the remaining trunk.

Remove excessive branches

Too many branches packed together can quickly weaken a tree. Small, weak branches inhibit the growth of larger ones. Removing extra branches, which generally develop laterally, allows the surviving branches to receive more air and sunshine.

This is especially significant for trees that generate many branches at the same point on the trunk, resulting in a weak zone.

Get rid of stubs as soon as you notice them.

When a branch breaks off in the wind, or you chop it too far from its joining point with the tree, it leaves a stub. You should remove stubs as soon as you discover them.

A stub prevents a protective callus from closing the incision, giving insects access. Once insects have made inroads, dampness and rot can take over.

When cutting off an old stub, don’t cut into the swelling callus tissue that has formed near the trunk. This is because you must seal the wound.

Allow the wound to heal.

You do not need to apply a seal to pruning cuts or broken branches. Allowing a wound to breathe is enough to help it recover faster. Dressings can limit the growth of callus tissue (the swollen area) and trap moisture, which promotes decomposition.

Most arborist services Chevy Chase exclusively apply tar-like wound dressings. Some use insecticidal wound applications to deter beetles from visiting and potentially transmitting oak wilt disease.

You should research and find the best product you should use on your trees.

While you can do the work yourself, you should consider hiring a professional to help you with it. The beauty is that the professional is experienced; hence, they will know the right thing to do.